Bouldering Training Plan: A Weekly Schedule for Casual Boulderers
This is a bouldering training plan for casual boulderers who already climb twice a week and want the next step. It is not a pro schedule. It is a small, repeatable change to the week you already have, and if you stick to it for a few months you won't look back. Having watched countless casual boulderers over the years, these are the simplest adjustments I know to level up.
Brand new to climbing, or not yet climbing twice a week? Start with the Indoor Climbing Training Plan for Beginners instead and come back here once that feels easy.
Weekly Training Plan Overview
This isn’t a ground breaking plan. It is an extension of the regular “two days a week bouldering”.
- 1 dedicated strength and power session
- 2/3 bouldering sessions that have intent
- 1 dedicated endurance session
- 1 dedicated flexibility and mobility session
- 2 focused recovery sessions
The key takeaways from this weekly plan are to approach each bouldering session with clear intent, increase the volume of your bouldering (2 days to 3 days), incorporate a dedicated strength and power session, and allocate time to focus on flexibility and mobility.
Monday
- Rest Day
- Focus: Recovery
- Activity: Light stretching or yoga to enhance flexibility.
Tuesday
- Bouldering Session
- Focus: Enjoy bouldering as usual.
- Tips: Try to incorporate specific drills (e.g., footwork drills, working on challenging problems).
Wednesday
- Strength and Power Training
- Focus: Building power and upper body strength.
- Exercises:
- Pull-ups: 3 sets of 5-8 reps with weight added.
- Dead Hangs: 6 sets of 10 seconds. 20mm edge. Add weight. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Campus Board Training (if available): 4 sets of ladder drills (1-3-5-7-9). Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Bar Leg Raises: 3 sets of 10 reps. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Clapping Pushups: 3 sets. Stop reps when speed decreases. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Copenhagen planks: 3 sets of 10-30 seconds holds. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
Thursday
- Bouldering Session
- Focus: Continue regular bouldering.
- Tips: Work on specific problems that challenge your technique and power.
Friday
- Endurance + Flexibility and Mobility
- Focus: Improve endurance, overall fitness and enhance flexibility to help prevent injury.
- Activities:
- Jogging or Cycling: 20-30 minutes at a steady pace.
- Dynamic Stretching: 10-15 minutes.
- Foam Rolling: 10-15 minutes.
Saturday/Sunday
- Bouldering Session or Active Rest
- Option 1: Bouldering Session - Focus on having fun and tackling new problems.
- Option 2: Active Rest - Light activities like hiking, walking, or light climbing.
- Note: Don't boulder two days in a row.
Tips for Success
- Consistency: Stick to the plan to see gradual improvements.
- Listen to Your Body: Adjust the plan if you feel overly fatigued. There is nothing wrong with another rest day.
- Stay Hydrated and Eat Well: Proper nutrition and hydration are key to performance and recovery.
If the above feels overwhelming, start by just changing one aspect of your week and slowly incorporate more over time. That is the same rule as Focus on One Variable at a Time.
Track the week so you can see it working
Write down each session: the day, the session type (bouldering, strength, endurance, mobility), and the one or two things you pushed on. In Sequence you can set this week up as repeating workouts and copy it forward, so after six or eight weeks you can see whether your strength day actually moved and whether you kept the rest days.
Enjoy.